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'We Treat You Like Family'

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By JASON GEARY, The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 2, 2008

Updated: 12/29/2007 09:14 pm

CITRUS PARK - Mike Miulli's fascination with cooking began while watching his grandmother.

The 44-year-old Citrus Park business owner can still picture his "Nana" baking her special focaccia bread, carefully crafting sauces and spending hours painstakingly creating orecchiette - small, ear-shaped pasta - that would be devoured in minutes by his large Chicago family.

"I just learned from experience," Miulli said. "I never went to culinary school or anything like that. It's just a lot of experience."

Miulli and his wife, Linda, own and operate Italiano's Market & Deli, across from Sickles High School at Sheldon Road and Gunn Highway. The business has been open since August.

The couple hope customers will feel at home when browsing their meals to go, gourmet ingredients, wines, desserts and produce. There is wine tasting and live music from 1 to 4 p.m. Saturdays.

"Our slogan is 'We treat you like family but without the guilt,'" joked Linda Miulli.

Being Italian and formerly from New York, Carolyn Matera said Italiano's is "pretty darn close to the deli-type atmosphere" that she remembers from up North. She tends to stop in at places claiming to carry good pizza, bagels or specialty ingredients.

"It's exciting to see they offer some of these things," she said.

The 42-year-old Carrollwood resident said she likes eating octopus salad and recently ordered 5 pounds from Italiano's.

With the new business under way, the past several months have been busy for the Miulli family. Mike Miulli said he enjoys spending time with his daughter Emily, who was born in July.

"We are extremely blessed," he said, holding his daughter and patting her back. "This is my dream come true right here."

About a month after Emily's birth, Mike Miulli opened the deli and market. He spent about 10 years managing hot dog concession stands outside local Home Depots.

On trips to visit family in Chicago, Miulli and his wife were accustomed to loading up a large cooler with goodies and delicacies.

"I just thought, 'Let's do an authentic Italian deli and market,'" Miulli said.

"Every time we would go to Chicago, we would have to bring things from up there down here that you just can't get, like good sausage and meats and salami and olives and all that stuff you don't get at your average supermarket."

Salvatore Zammito, a chef from Sicily, also works in the kitchen.

"He is really a cooking machine," Miulli said. "That's what I call him. He is nonstop. He'll get in here and just cook all day. ... We have our recipes, and he has his recipes."

In addition to gourmet items, the eatery features pizzas and Italian meals made from family recipes. Miulli also doesn't mind taking on special orders not on the regular menu.

Linda Miulli said one regular customer arrives on Saturdays for a margarita pizza with two meatballs on it. One woman requested an all-beef sausage with pine nuts, tomato, garlic, salt and pepper.

"I try to appease anyone - whatever they like," Mike Miulli said. "That's what people enjoy."

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Italiano's Market & Deli creates Italian dishes, carries wines, specialty ingredients, imported meats and cheeses. Catering service also is offered.

WHERE: 7924 Gunn Highway
HOURS: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday

INFORMATION: Call (813) 926-3354 or visit www.italianosmarket.com

Reporter Jason Geary can be reached at (813) 865-1505 or jgeary@tampatrib.com.

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