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A Natural Progression

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By ANGELA DELGADO, The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 30, 2008

Updated: 01/28/2008 06:33 pm

TOWN 'N COUNTRY - Drive past the intersection of Benjamin Road and Waters Avenue, and you'll likely miss a treasure in plain sight.

Surrounded by cars, businesses and the Veterans Expressway, a 15-acre lot holds the 4 acres of green, red, orange and purple rows that make up Bern's Steak House's organic farm. "The farm," as the company calls it, has supplied Bern's and SideBern's with organic vegetables since the restaurants' inceptions.

For founder Bern Laxer, having the best quality products for his customers was priority No. 1, said Heather Sherer-Berkoff, spokeswoman for Bern's.

"Bern's whole philosophy was to be able to try and serve his guests the best product," she said. "Whether the best wine in the world or best chocolate he could get from France; he was a big believer in organics, and the farm allowed him to supply fresh fruits and vegetables. That's the whole Bern's tradition."

The farm is so important to the company that waiters-in-training are required to work 40 hours at the farm to complete their two-year internship.

Laxer and his wife, Gert, bought the farm in 1954 and used it to grow crops such as cabbage, tomatoes, eggplant, turnips and broccoli. When Laxer fell ill a few years ago, he was unable to oversee operations, and the farm began deteriorating, said Rick Martinez, executive director of Sweetwater Organic Community Farm in Town 'N Country.

The hurricanes that pounded the area didn't help much either, Sherer-Berkoff said.

After Laxer died in 2002 and the farm's manager left, things for the farm got worse.

Three years ago, Sweetwater began a relationship with the Bern's farm. Bern's farm allowed Sweetwater to grow crops at its farm in exchange for technical support for Bern's farm crew, Martinez said. Almost two years ago, Berk Gumus, an agricultural engineer, began working at Bern's farm and later became the farm's manager.

"They didn't have anyone who had farming experience," he said. "It's a challenge to find someone who has farming experience to manage these farms. It takes a good bit of planning to get good rotations and harvest schedules."

Sweetwater approached Bern's to lend a helping hand.

"I think all local food production is important," Martinez said. "It's nice that there's a local restaurant committed to quality products for customers."

Martinez also believes in organic farming. He said the farmers focus on creating healthy soil, which in turn will provide nutrients for its crops. With chemical fertilizers, crops absorb a limited amount of nutrients, he said. The lack of chemicals is also good for the environment, he said.

"It's safer and fresher than anything you'll ever buy," he said. "Mother nature, that's the best way. Often, man thinks they're smarter."

When Sweetwater workers arrived at the farm, Martinez said, most of the farm was out of production. Still, the soil was in great shape, making the farm's organization the focal point. It took seven months for Sweetwater to turn things around, he said.

"Now we have the fields under control," Martinez said. "It feels great. I've been doing this for 30 years, but it feels good to see this farm's comeback to its own."

Sweetwater, located three miles away, has full management of the farm, but the farm's products are solely for Bern's and SideBern's. The farm delivers a van full of crops to Bern's and SideBern's three times a week, Martinez said.

Still, when the farm wasn't doing well, the restaurants had to rely on other organic farms and nonorganic farms for their produce. They still do, to some degree, Sherer-Berkoff said.

"We had to look for other ways, but we're thrilled now that we're able to get more produce from the farm," she said. "It's one less cost for us, and we can say we grew this, this came from our farm today."

"Producing yourself sets you apart from other places in the market," she said. "It's important to continue traditions that were founded by the founders."

Reporter Angela Delgado can be reached at (813) 865-1501 or adelgado@tampatrib.com.

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